Serendipity in Salzburg

I read once an article about how we create our own luck. As far as I can remember, the idea was that those who we consider “lucky” are in fact not endowed with a magical serendipity (propensity to accidently fall into lucky situations) but rather exude positivity, flexibility and a general interest in trying something new.

            Before I headed across the pond to Austria, I felt too stressed to maintain the demeanor of a “lucky” person, so I didn’t, and I wasn’t lucky…or I didn’t have serendipity. Nothing particularly lucky ever seemed to happen to me. But I was able to recharge during winter break, allowing me to arrive in Salzburg with the qualities—a positive attitude, willingness to change my plans, and desire to meet new people--of a serendipitous person.

            And guess what? I have totally found serendipity in Salzburg!

            Let me elaborate. It began when I was sitting in a nice Italian restaurant with a friend at the end of the first week of my stay in Salzburg. We were chatting, enjoying our delicious four-cheese pizza, when the couple sitting two tables over approached us. “Where are you two from?” the man, whose American accent was by now apparent, asked us. We chatted for a minute about our hometowns and why we were here. And then, before departing, he said they had paid for our meal, and he handed us each a Salzburg Card, which gives you free and discounted entry to attractions around the city.

            Bam. Serendipitous moment. Accidental, out of the blue, very awesome.

            Some time later, I was sitting in a café with the same friend. Again, we were chatting, enjoying our coffees and complementary Mozartkugeln, when an Austrian couple took a seat at the table beside us. We struck up a conversation about Mozartkugeln factories and, this really meant a lot of me because I love Mozartballs, the couple gave us their Mozartkugeln.

            Yet again, a serendipitous moment.

            After arriving at four in the morning from a bumpy night train ride from Venice, I attended Salzburg’s Butcher’s Leap celebration in which nineteen young men, apprentices of butchers, jumped into a giant bucket of water to wash away the mistakes they’d made as apprentices and usher in their new lives as butchers. I exchanged smiles and glances with a friendly Austrian women. We soon were chatting (in German!) about the celebrations. I had just been thinking earlier how I needed to meet more Austrians and improve my German, so talking to this woman, Christine, was really wonderful. When the celebrations had ended, she told me that her and her husband’s tradition was to eat a sausage that was being sold at a nearby vendor. But, she said “Mein Mann ist krank” and asked me if she could buy me a sausage instead. I choose the white sausage, which, because of the casing you have to peel off, is an experience in itself. After eating our sausages, Christine and I departed. I felt pretty awesome because I’d practiced my German, watched a fascinating Salzburg tradition, and gotten a free sausage!

            Serendipity strikes again.

            And finally (at least for now), after I’d visited St. Peter’s catacombs and an authentic Austrian restaurant (where I was served cheese sausage wrapped in bacon on a bed of fries), a friend and I wandered into a ceramic store/studio of a cloister. The shop was jam-packed with ceramic odds and ends (most interesting were the ceramic snakes curling around candles). We were about to leave when the shop owner stopped us and handed us each a little ceramic angel. We were both surprised and honored.

            And there we go, serendipity.

            The serendipity I’ve found in Salzburg, I believe, is proof that the article I read was right- we do make our own luck, simply by being positive and open-minded.

Viareggio Carnival and Parade

Endangered Animal Float

After a day in Venice for Carnival, you would think I would be ready to relax and enjoy a day without the massive crowds. Instead, I visited the Tuscan coastal town of Viareggio for their famous carnival parade. The event included seeing more people than I could fathom in one place, throwing confetti on unsuspecting "bambini", being nearly run over by giant floats, and eating typical carnival sweets.

Alien Float

Burlesque-oni

The floats are made from paper mache and can take up to a year to construct. They are created by professional artists in a designated area of the city, called the Carnival Citadel, and stored in huge garages until the event in March. The floats usually depict relevant current issues, such as politics (Obama and Berlusconi made appearances this year), the environment, and culture.

Indian Karmasutra float. 

The large, first class floats can be more than 20 meters high. The second class floats are smaller, but no less amazing. The third class floats are actually large costumes worn by a single person, such as my favorite, the Burlesque-oni costumer above.

An impressive single person float!

Abra-Obama and his flea circus of politicians

The parade was not like anything I experienced in the states. The people flood the streets and mingle with the bands and smaller floats. When the large floats, which take up the whole street, pass by, we are all pushed to the side and smashed against each other. The floats have moving and twisting elements that are either mechanically or manually controlled. I am pretty sure I almost got hit by a swinging cavewomen from the endangered animal float.

One of my favorite floats. The goddess appears when the flower opens. Below her is contaminated water and dying vegetation.

Amnesty International

The most amazing float in the parade, Rexpublica, depicts Berlusconi as a T-rex skeleton. His face cracks open to reveal a human skull. Around him are burning newspapers (a reference to his control of the Italian media). The float was accompanied by chanting dancers dressed in white. Absolutely chilling.

Mozart and the Sachertorte

This reminded me very much of the mirror in Harry Potter.

A gloomy Sunday morning following a sunny and forty-degree Saturday at first did not seem promising.  By the time I reached the Residenzplatz, the snow was falling heavily and the air was cold. Tim and I were headed on our way to mass at Franziskanerkirche, a smaller church located across from the overpowering Dom cathedral.  We crossed under an ancient arch toward the church, bells began to ring, people bustled by and suddenly the snow wasn’t a nuisance anymore but an addition to the romantic setting. Franziskanerkirche is considerably smaller than the Dom, but it does not lack its fair share of elegance. Golden statues surround the alter under a curved stone ceiling. This smaller church filled up fast. Most people kept their coats and hats on during the service to battle the cold that was almost magnified in the church.

                The mass seemed typical until, from behind the congregation, an orchestra began to play Mozart. My untrained ear  could distinguish the sounds of violins, cello, and certainly flutes.  Male and female signers occasionally added their voices to the music. What is a better way to experience Mozart in the city of his birth? The music floated around the church and added a magical touch to the romantic feeling of the day. Clearly the “concert” was enjoyed by all, as the congregation applauded twice at the end of the service.  Once outside, Tim told me that the music played today was first performed by Mozart in that same church.

                After saying goodbye to Tim, I ducked into the Residenz building, palace of the archbishop of Salzburg. I carried my high from hearing Mozart in his own element as I ascended the wide sweeping steps towards the palace. For the student price of 4.5 Euro, I received an audio tour guide, similar to that of Westminster Abbey.  The Residenz is a gorgeous palace. Nearly every room is adorned with ceiling frescos and paintings, usually of Greek myths or Alexander the Great. An ornate period clock is a typical sight along with Venetian mirrors and chandeliers. Tapestries, full length mirrors, silk damask wallpaper. Outside the windows, you can see the busy cafes and horse carriages.

The famous Sachertorte.

                When I left the Residenz behind and stood waiting for my bus, the weather was as gloomy as ever, the romantic snow now turned to rain. Despite the weather, I still had Mozart playing in my head and the  gorgeous painting of Thetus’ wedding from the palace in my memory. And like almost every day here is Salzburg, I thought a perfect addition to the day would be a Melange and a pastry….which I did receive at Café Sacher that afternoon.

                The large café looks out over the Salzach river, is decorated with pictures of celebrities who’ve visited (on an unromantic note, including our late Vice President), and serves up the classic Sachertorte. Add a friendly, smartly dressed waiter, a creamy Melange, and a fun group of AIFS students, and it was a wonderful way to finish off my day’s adventures in Salzburg!