Mozart and the Sachertorte

This reminded me very much of the mirror in Harry Potter.

A gloomy Sunday morning following a sunny and forty-degree Saturday at first did not seem promising.  By the time I reached the Residenzplatz, the snow was falling heavily and the air was cold. Tim and I were headed on our way to mass at Franziskanerkirche, a smaller church located across from the overpowering Dom cathedral.  We crossed under an ancient arch toward the church, bells began to ring, people bustled by and suddenly the snow wasn’t a nuisance anymore but an addition to the romantic setting. Franziskanerkirche is considerably smaller than the Dom, but it does not lack its fair share of elegance. Golden statues surround the alter under a curved stone ceiling. This smaller church filled up fast. Most people kept their coats and hats on during the service to battle the cold that was almost magnified in the church.

                The mass seemed typical until, from behind the congregation, an orchestra began to play Mozart. My untrained ear  could distinguish the sounds of violins, cello, and certainly flutes.  Male and female signers occasionally added their voices to the music. What is a better way to experience Mozart in the city of his birth? The music floated around the church and added a magical touch to the romantic feeling of the day. Clearly the “concert” was enjoyed by all, as the congregation applauded twice at the end of the service.  Once outside, Tim told me that the music played today was first performed by Mozart in that same church.

                After saying goodbye to Tim, I ducked into the Residenz building, palace of the archbishop of Salzburg. I carried my high from hearing Mozart in his own element as I ascended the wide sweeping steps towards the palace. For the student price of 4.5 Euro, I received an audio tour guide, similar to that of Westminster Abbey.  The Residenz is a gorgeous palace. Nearly every room is adorned with ceiling frescos and paintings, usually of Greek myths or Alexander the Great. An ornate period clock is a typical sight along with Venetian mirrors and chandeliers. Tapestries, full length mirrors, silk damask wallpaper. Outside the windows, you can see the busy cafes and horse carriages.

The famous Sachertorte.

                When I left the Residenz behind and stood waiting for my bus, the weather was as gloomy as ever, the romantic snow now turned to rain. Despite the weather, I still had Mozart playing in my head and the  gorgeous painting of Thetus’ wedding from the palace in my memory. And like almost every day here is Salzburg, I thought a perfect addition to the day would be a Melange and a pastry….which I did receive at Café Sacher that afternoon.

                The large café looks out over the Salzach river, is decorated with pictures of celebrities who’ve visited (on an unromantic note, including our late Vice President), and serves up the classic Sachertorte. Add a friendly, smartly dressed waiter, a creamy Melange, and a fun group of AIFS students, and it was a wonderful way to finish off my day’s adventures in Salzburg!